![]() There ya go! A simple, inexpensive solution to redirecting our vent from the floor to a cabinet toe-kick. I didn’t think nailing the box down was needed as it would be hidden securely under a cabinet. In this situation, the calk served to secure the box in place and make it as air tight as possible. In addition, the deflector prevents warm air from being blown on windows shades and vertical blinds for a sliding glass door. My thought have been that I get more efficient heating if I heat the lowest air in the house and let the heat rise. I then flipped it over, positioned the box in the appropriate place, and calked the outside edges. On the first floor I use vent deflectors like the picture below. It was troublesome, but it’s what we already had on hand and the color didn’t matter in this case.Īfter the box was finished, I applied a bead of calk to the base. I then caulked the inside seams. Clear calk is, for some reason, more runny than black calk of the same brand – by the way. I used the lip on the upper edge of the box’s sides to help align the top piece & nailed the box together. I constructed the vent box from left over subfloor material that had a little lip on the edge. ($5.21 per bottle)Īll of the materials for this project were left-overs from other projects. Materials: Pinnicale premium OSB subfloor (SFI 50 Year outdoor), nails, GE silicone clear caulk 9.8 oz. I planned on cutting an appropriately sized hole in the toe kick in the future. I did not have the new vent cover at the time, but that information wasn’t needed for this portion of the project. I knew the dimensions of the existing vent hole, the height from the floor to the cabinet base, and the distance between the cabinet legs. ![]() So here were the plans: I only needed to construct a partial box because the floor would serve as the bottom side. ![]() The result is that the vent needs to be redirected under the cabinet to the future cabinet toe kick. This is a location where no cabinets had ever been… actually, it was most likely previously used as an eat-in table nook. The only vent in the kitchen sits at the base of the “bay window” (if you can call it that – it’s more of just a cantilevered box), directly under where we will be installing new cabinets. So, here’s a closer look at redirecting the vent! That might be a better solution because it won’t offend your neighbor. DAVID: It could work with a 90-degree bend in it, an S bend, so it’s pointing back down towards the roof. I kind-of quickly skipped past this project in order to write about the larger overall project. One way or the other, you have to put a cap over it. Give us a call, or send a message and will be happy to customize our product to fit any of your ducting needs for less than what a custom solution will cost.In the last post about installing the kitchen cabinets, I mentioned that I redirected a vent under a cabinet. We have helped countless homeowners with a unique ducting solution. The Toe Ductor kits are the #1 choice by thousands of contractors, HVAC technicians, and DIY’s for properly running heating and cooling through cabinet toe kicks.įacing a unique ducting situation under the cabinet? Purchase the Toe Ductor directly from us, the manufacturer. You will not find a similar product in any home center. 9,726,394) allows you to connect any boot, round or square to the toe kick register from anywhere underneath the cabinet and creates a sealed and efficient connection to ensure your heating and cooling reaches the room and is not leaked into your cabinets. Heat Vents in the Cabinet Toe Kick? Yes! Toe Ductor kits are the most effective, easiest to install, and cost effective method available for routing existing wall, baseboard, and floor heat vents under a cabinet and out the toe kick register.
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